Everyone southern Fujainese household has its own recipe. And they will insist that their recipe is better than anyone else’s; to admit that another family has a better variant is no less than treason. But when pressed for details, most cooks become vague. ‘A little bit of this, a little bit of that…’ or ‘It’s very simple, just put in the ingredients…’ So to break with this tradition of secrecy (and because I forget easily) I’m writing down our family’s recipe for hongba. This ain’t your momma’s stewed pork belly; more importantly, it ain’t my momma’s, either. Nor anyone else’s momma. It’s my baby’s momma’s; and it’s just the way we like it.
Take one one large piece pork belly and caramelise it. This means searing it in a very hot pan (or the pot you’re going to stew it in) until beginning to brown; then turn the heat down a little and sprinkle sugar. Turn over, then sprinkle on the other side. Keep going until the piece is covered in a honey-like glaze. If the heat is too fierce the sugar will burn and become bitter. Deglaze with Shaoxing rice wine and scrape the sucs while boiling off the alcohol. Pour in stock, dried mushrooms that have been rehydrated and soaked in hot water (add a little porcini for extra flavour). Add soy sauce, star anise, unpeeled ginger sliced into thick coins, mashed chestnuts, freshly-ground pepper, and cassia bark. Bring to a boil and then simmer for three hours on the lowest heat possible, then turn it off and leave overnight. (You know how things like adobo are always better the next day? The solution: make it the day before.) The next day, bring it slowly to a boil over low heat and then allow it to simmer for another three hours. Meanwhile, prepare the garnish: peanuts ground with sugar (or cashew and hazelnut) and freshly torn (not chopped!) coriander. Eat with thick egg noodles or rice, or with steamed buns.
